Category Archives: Around Town

Sheep Tales

Every day I ride past this area/slum and there is a sheep which grazes on the garbage on the side of the street (sometimes with goats and cows, sometimes not).  It’s a rather large animal and has all the qualities of a sheep except it has a tail. Normally I would take a picture but the traffic is bad and people live there.  I don’t want to infringe on their privacy.

Does anyone know if sheep have tails?  Or is this a freak-of-nature-sheep?

In other news, I got back into the swing of things at work this past week and Mark’s sisters, Julie & Kathleen, are arriving next Saturday for a week-long visit.  We’re looking forward to seeing them, touring around Delhi and traveling to Udaipur and Agra.  It will be fun!

Giving to Home of Hope India

I’ve been MIA from the blog over the past few weeks…we’ve had Mark’s aunt & cousin in town, I got sick a couple more times and we spent a week in wonderful Kerala. I’ll post more about the trip in the next few days but there is something more pressing I want to share.

We all have choices this time of year on how we want to give of our time and our wallets.  We’re tugged in dozens of directions and I’m giving you one more direction to think about – Home of Hope India.

This is the orphanage where I volunteered a couple of months ago and while my stay was short, my memories of the place will be long.  The Sisters have performed miracles with some of the most hopeless of orphans teaching them basic life skills, giving them an education, nourishing their spirits and bodies.  Paul Wilkes, Coordinator for Home of Hope India, wrote this article for the National Catholic Reporter which provides an excellent glimpse of the focus for the house.  I got to hang out with Swathi quite a bit and she is a bright and curious 8 year old…she can’t wait to use the computer one day!

Please help make the life of an orphan better.  You can donate any amount ($100 will feed the girls for an entire week) and it’s easy to give online – I just did!

Have a Merry Christmas and happy, healthy New Year!

Love,
Katie

Happy Diwali!

Two weekends ago was Diwali, the festival of light and the last of the celebrations of “Festival Season”, which started in late September.  There are a lot of parties, gift-giving, sweets exchanges and firecrackers.  We’ve been describing it as Fourth of July and Christmas season wrapped into one.  Firecrackers have been going off for about the last couple of weeks…it’s sort of like Pilsen in early July.  You’ve seen pictures of our street (which is like every other street)…there isn’t a lot of space on the road so the firecrackers really have a good “boom” effect.

Homes and businesses were also decked out with lights and flowers.  Here are some pics of some of the things we saw…including some household fireworks shows.

Defence Colony Market

Defence Colony Lights

Colonel Kebab's

Our first foray with street food...Colonel Kebabs

Marigolds

Mounds of Marigolds

Celebration

A Rangoli created by our friend

Evergreen

Famous sweets shop, Evergreen...right here in our market

Our street

Lights on our street

We knew that there would be a lot of fireworks going on from our friends & neighbors but what we didn’t expect was that they would go on for eight hours straight without stopping.  A modern day loaves & fishes story (if there is a Hindu equivalent)…no one ran out and there are even left overs.

Forgot to tell you…

International Day of Peace was celebrated on September 21st and the school had a big celebration all week leading up to that day.  The guest of honor was His Holiness, the Karmapa or the next Dali Lama and I got to meet him! He is really young (early 20’s) and has a strong yet gentle presence.

His Holiness, the Karmapa

His Holiness, the Karmapa and me

He spoke to the entire school about achieving inner-peace and balance starting with oneself and then sharing those qualities with family and friends.  Basically, positive attitude and energy is contagious.  Or, as we always heard at Viz “A spoonful of honey attracts more flies than a barrel full of vinegar” (Francis de Sales) and then we’d get a Bit-O-Honey. I still love those little candies!

Qutb Minar

Today we went to check out the Qutb Minar, the worlds tallest minaret. The structure was completed in the 14th century and is now part of a larger area of ruins.  Over the years it has shifted and is no longer straight, rather 60 centimeters off-center.  It’s exciting to say that I’ve seen two leaning towers in my life.

View from Complex entrance

View from Complex Entrance

Up Close

Up Close

Ruins

Ruins

Also on the grounds was this iron pillar that does not rust.  Legend has it that if you could stand with your back against the pillar and you could wrap your arms around it and clasp your hands, you’d get your wish.  Today that is not allowed and no one’s wishes are granted because all the sweat from the thousands or maybe even millions of people started to wear away at the pillar.  Come to think of it, it would be kind of gross to lean up after some sweaty dude.  Maybe not as bad as kissing the Blarney Stone, though.

Miracle Metal

Miracle Metal

These monuments were curiosities we’ve been meaning to satisfy for a few months now and we’re glad we went and saw them.  And we got a good photo opportunity of the two of us (even though the top is cut off – sort of like taking a picture of the Christmas tree and missing the angel).

Tourists

Tourists at Qutb Minar

 

Fire Breather Video

In the last post I mentioned that I captured video of the firebreather at our friend’s party.  I finally figured out how to use vimeo and here you go!

Update #4

Mark has been sending out very nice notes to our families and friends and I wanted to share them with my side of the equation.  This explains a little about his job and mine (orig. sent on Sept. 13)!  No pics this time around…we had a fantastic weekend and I’m posting Update #5 in the next day or so.  Stay tuned!

*****

Hi,

How have you been?

Katie and I have just returned from our weekly trip to the market to pick up groceries.  We went to Khan Market initially to get some breakfast and ended up finding a great shop nearby.  We had been driving out to a part of Delhi called Vasant Vihar for our groceries, but this market is more centrally located, so we may end up switching.  The store had a great selection of greens, herbs, vegetables, and fruits (including a dragon fruit, which we didn’t know how to eat so we took a pass on it for now).  Nearby is a great indepedent bookstore (Full Circle Books), where we picked up another Indian cookbook so we can do something with all of this food.  This time we chose a vegetarian cookbook so we can serve some local dishes for our veg guests (at restaurants, the split is veg/non-veg, making veg the default), and we just don’t have the variety of dishes in our repetoire.

Last night we were invited to one of the AIIMS’ attending’s home for dinner.  Kathik (his name) and his wife (Niveditha) were gracious hosts and also invited over the other visiting fellow from Kenya (Bernard), as well as one of the AIIMS cardiology fellows (Navrit, along with his wife and their two sons).  Bernard is here for a year-long clinical fellowship so that he can acquire sufficient skills to practice cardiology back home.  He is originally from the area around Mount Kenya (where Jon and Cecilia were engaged) but now lives near Nairobi.  His wife (an ER doc) and son are still back in Nairobi for the year, again making me appreciate Katie’s willingness to all of this.  We were trying to convince him of the benefits of Skype for keeping in touch (even via his iPhone)!

Navrit is a half-colonel in the Indian army and was previously stationed in Botswana, which he and his wife loved.  Apparently three (out of ~18) AIIMS cardiology fellowship spots are reserved for army applicants.  Navrit will continue to serve in the military after his training and will likely be stationed outside of Delhi.  He’s a very jovial, funny Sikh, which seems to fit into many of the Sikhs we have met so far.  Earlier on Saturday, he presented the weekly case conference whereby he meets the patient on Friday evening once he has finished his work for the day (I’m not sure who selects the patient) then prepares his history and physical presentation for the following morning.  The patient comes to the conference and sits quietly with his family member where some of the attendings will examine him.  Navrit is then pounded with question after question about percentages of patients with problem X and various minutiae.  I was amazed when the whole room of cardiology fellows jumped at the answer, “Noonan syndrome” when asked about a congenital cause of an atrial septal defect and pulmonic stenosis along with several abnormalities that this patient did not have (it’s an extremely rare disease that I only have a passing understanding of).  Yesterday’s patient was a 21 year-old man with a 12 year history of chest pain and exertional shortness of breath that turned out to be congenital pulmonic stenosis with an atrial septal defect (without the other features of Noonan syndrome, so not that diagnosis).  Navrit got the diagnosis on his second attempt, which seemed great to me since he was not given the luxury of seeing the echocardiogram (a heart ultrasound–which essentially makes the diagnosis).  The next step will be to see whether or not the atrial septal defect can be closed with a device inserted percutaneously (inserting it through the vein in the leg and opening up the closure device in the heart).  If so, then the tight pulmonic valve can also be expanded percutaneously; if not, he will need surgery.

Back to the dinner….we had dosas (South Indian crepes), idlis (pronounced idd-lees), plenty of good veg food, and ice cream for dessert.  Niveditha started preparing the batter for the idlis on Friday morning with some major equipment (an electric millstone!), so we really appreciated how good the food tasted.  She even let me take a crack and make my own dosa (it turned out pretty well).  And per usual South Indian style, we ate with our fingers, making sure not to let anything touch below our topmost knuckle (a few crumbs might have slipped).  At the end of the evening, their son played the sitar–it was a great end to a fun night.  I was really amazed at how people have opened up their homes to us–it just makes it so much more enjoyable than going out to a restaurant.

As you may have heard, Katie has recently landed a free-lance position at the American Embassy School, working in their development office.  She is working with the only other person in the development office (Preeti), trying to increase participation from alumni in the school’s activities (which might enhance donations), increase awareness of cultural activities/exhibits at the school (a Grammy award-winning folk singer is playing there next Friday for ~$4), and help with regular online newsletters.  It’s ~20 hours per week, which still allows Katie to meet up with the Delhi Network folks (expat social club) and explore Delhi during the day.  I am proud of her landing a job that fits her skill set (and pays pretty well), all within a short while of arriving.

As far as my work goes, I have finally completed all of the paperwork for AIIMS and will be meeting with the head of the department (Dr. Bahl) this upcoming Monday for my formal “start”.  I received access to the charts I had been seeking last week and have had to make significant updates to the dataset, which calls into question most of the previously collected data.  Therefore, I am going through each chart individually and trying to squeeze every bit of information from it–a time-consuming process for sure.  Once we have a better sense of where things stand, then I think we can start planning to start the quality improvement part of my project (hopefully, at least).  CCDC has been humming along.  I have been working on a manuscript based on the cardiovascular risk factor incidence data from the New Delhi Birth Cohort.  This cohort began in 1969, and there are >1000 participants who have been followed since that time.  As they are reaching the age when problems like hypertension and diabetes begin, those data have been collected prospectively.  It is the first prospective cohort in all of India looking at these problems and provides the best insight into the burden of cardiovascular disease risk factors to date (from what I have seen so far, the burden of disease is startling).

We can hardly wait for our first visitor in early November–my sister, Susan!  We have planned a trip around the Golden Triangle (Delhi-Jaipur-Agra) and are working on some of the details already.  It should be a blast, and we are very appreciative of Susan making the effort to come and visit (and being courageous enough to be the first).  We look forward to our visitors as well.

We miss you all very much and are trying to make Delhi “home” as much as we can.  Skype has been such a great means to stay connected, and we look forward to talking with you soon.

Love,
Katie & Mark

Long Distance Dedication

Mark was thinking of our friend Stefan (and the rest of the gang, really) when he ordered Beck’s beer the other evening.  His pinky finger is saying “hello!”

Hope to share a Beck's in Delhi!

Hope to share a Beck's in Delhi!

Holy Cow!

Remember that posh grocery market I was telling you about that sells Bud beer (among other nice things like imported cheeses, whole fish, Tide, etc.)?  There are several very nice, high end shops and restaurants in the same shopping center.  Cows seem to like the locale, too.  Three words:  Watch your step.

Charming...not so much

Charming...not so much

Dining Out

A lot happened this week…most importantly I got a part-time consulting job and I started on Wednesday.  The Lady of Leisure days are fun, but without a household to run, began to get a little dry.  I’ll post on the job in a separate post…there are still a few logistics that we need to figure out.  I’ll also comment on “running a household” later, too.

This post is about one of my favorite things – eating!  Mark and I make the majority of our meals at home but have dined out on most of the weekends.  We’ve relied on two local publications, Time Out Delhi and First City for restaurant ideas and both mags have come through for us.  For those planning a visit, these will be on the list of dining options.

Gunpowder

We’ve been here twice; once for dinner and just last Saturday for lunch.  It’s in an area called Hauz Khas Village which is neighborhood full of shops and cafes/restaurants and is nestled in the middle of Deer Park.  Gunpowder is located on the fourth floor (fifth floor US) and overlooks the treetops and a big pond.

Love their logo

Love their logo

View from Gunpowder

View from Gunpowder

The owner/main chef is a woman who is Slow Food Movement believer.  The menu changes everyday and is scribbled in a notebook and passed around to each table.    Everything we’ve had has been delicious: pumpkin curry, mutton currey, dosas, spinach & yogurt dish (sort of like a creamed spinach with Indian flair), vegetable korma (coconut based) and pork short ribs.  The short ribs looked more like pork chops but we won’t get into semantics…they were cooked to perfection – juicy and tender and seasoned just right.  She came by to ask us what we thought because I don’t think pork is a very common in the Indian diet and we told her the truth – wonderful.

Hiding behind the shades

Hiding behind the shades

Lodi – The Garden Restaurant

This little gem is situated right next to the Lodi Gardens, one of the prettiest parks we’ve been to.  We went there on a whim and sat outside in the garden which was perfect.  Lanterns were hanging from the trees, candles lit each table and there were fine misters that came out of the ground to cool us off.  The bartender made a killer vodka martini (sorry, Kristine…no bleu cheese olives) and we had a great dinner to boot.  Larger groups occupied private cabanas which reminded me of South Beach.

Me, enjoying my view

Me, enjoying my view

Gung: The Palace

This is Korean BBQ right down the street from us and we went there for Mark’s birthday on Thursday.  They even served alcohol (our neighborhood is dry).  It’s a 3 story restaurant in a narrow building and we read it was very popular among the Korean businessman crowd.  It’s true.  We were the only non-Koreans and it was packed full.  We got the steak which was cooked table side (the first beef we’ve had since landing) and bimimbop which is a rice and vegetable dish that is topped with a fried egg and then stirred all together with a sauce.  As at all Korean restaurants the little appetizer dishes were served like kimchi, pickled vegetables, little omlette, a soup.  We really feasted that night.  And ate a little salad and got a little sick and we won’t be going back.  Wah-wah-waaaaaah…sorry Gung, you lose.

See that Romaine lettuce?  That's the culprit!

See that Romaine lettuce? That's the culprit!

Fez

We dined here the second night after we moved into our apartment.  It’s a Mediterranean/Moroccan style restaurant with lots of little dishes like hummus, baba gannouj (sp?), those tasty little Greek spinach triangles, and they had a terrific wine selection.  We hadn’t had any wine leading up to that and we haven’t had any since.  Maybe it’s a about time we head back…hmmm. It was also the middle of August and so hot outside and delightfully chilly inside.  Such relief when a place has good A/C!  Mark had a wonderful sea bass with potato and fennel mash along with roasted veg and I had the salmon.  The environment is fun and romantic and a little rustic.

Colorful lanterns

Colorful lanterns

Choko la

This cafe has two locations and I’ve been to both.  The one in Khan Market is on the first and second floors (remember, 2nd/3rd floor US) and has nice treetop views.  The menu is extensive, it’s open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night snacks with breakfast served all day.  When we went to the Khan Market location on a Sunday morning, we were among many expats…mostly Americans who enjoy brunching.  Good food, coffee and chocolates but we felt like we were back at home in a trendy neighborhood.

Finishing breakfast

Finishing breakfast

We’ve also been to a few restaurants that are just as tasty and maybe a little more “local” shall we say?  Lots of good South Indian places where dining is communal and it’s dirt cheap for really good chow.  We’ll be going back to these spots a few more times and I’ll take some snaps then.